30 Things You Should Know About Aquarium Plant Problems Chart

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30 Things You Should Know About Aquarium Plant Problems Chart | Plant Deficiency Chart

1. Micro nutrients are required in smaller amounts and should be supplemented in any planted aquarium. The most important micronutrients are: iron (Fe), magnese (Mn), chlorine (Cl), copper (Cu), boron (B), molybdenum (Mo), cobalt (Co), nickel (Ni). Without providing these your plants will start to show signs of nutrient deficiency such as holey leaves, yellowing leaves etc. Micronutrients are in all good plant fertilizers such as TNC, Easylife and Tropica fertilizers. Source: Internet
2. Essentially these are almost soil-like or are made from clay based compounds and as the name suggests, form part of your aquarium’s substrate. Realistically these can only be added when you set up your aquarium from scratch. If you are planning on creating a heavily planted tank, then you really should consider using substrate fertilisers. Although on the costly side, they last for several years and will provide sufficient nutrients for many strong and healthy plants. Almost all of the really impressive planted tanks you may have seen online will feature a substrate fertiliser. Source: Internet
3. With a grass like appearance and smallish size Echinodorus tenullus is perfect as a small foreground plant and can be used to create a lawn like effect in your aquarium. To achieve a ‘lawn’ in your aquarium plant small individual plants around two to three centimetres from each other. In a few weeks the floor of your aquarium should be carpeted as the plants will send runners through the substrate. Small plantlets will then grow from these runners. These can then be separated for use in other aquaria if required. Source: Internet
4. Why do we keep plants in our aquarium? Apart from the obvious aesthetic benefits, live aquarium plants also improve the water quality in your tank. As well as using up the carbon dioxide (CO 2 ) and ammonia (NH4) produced by your fish, they also use the nutrients needed for algae to grow, so they help reduce or even eliminate algal growth in your aquarium. They also provide cover to help keep your fish stress free and provide natural boundaries for territorial species, as well as cover for small fry. Source: Internet
5. As for the amount of light, we would recommend that your aquarium has at least 2 watts per gallon (4.54 litres) as an absolute minimum. If possible aim for 4 or even 5 watts per gallon as this will ensure better growth. Source: Internet
6. Sadly, not all aquarium shops know this or they forget to tell all of their customers who purchase plants from them. Online companies may pack your order straight out of the box after receiving their shipment from the Far East so that the plants are still covered in these particularly lethal chemicals. When added into your aquarium without soaking or rinsing the fate of your shrimp is sealed. Source: Internet
7. Many popular models of aquarium offered for sale these days were designed with more thought towards interior design rather than the needs of aquatic plant species originating from half way around the world. People often assume that plants will be fine whatever their tank is supplied with. Whilst this is sometimes true, it is not always the case. Some tanks simply don’t have what is needed for some more challenging species. Matching suitable species to your tank’s lighting is a big step in the right direction. Source: Internet
8. The large and attractive, light to emerald green pointed, lance like foliage make them a popular aquarium favourite. However in order to grow well, Amazon swords do require feeding. For best results provide a nutritious substrate or add root tab type plant fertiliser to your existing substrate. Liquid based plant fertilisers will not sustain amazon sword plants. Source: Internet
9. LED (Light Emitting Diode) aquarium lighting has become extremely popular in recent times, and with good reason. They last over 50,000 hours and emit no heat so can be placed very close to the water surface so that your plants benefit from more from the light they emit. Their small and flexible size makes gives you an element of flexibility when positioning them too. It’s also possible to buy LED lighting in a tube style to fit in the place of fluorescent tubes. Source: Internet
10. Spatterdocks are large and hardy plants suitable for larger aquariums, ideally at least 45cm deep. Sometimes called yellow pond lilies, this species naturally inhabits deep pools with still or very slow moving water. With care and attention they will produce a yellow lily flower. They are ideal for those with a larger tank looking for a large specimen plant, or those with fish that dig up smaller plants. They need a nutrient rich bottom and a reasonable amount of light to flourish, therefore the addition of root tabs will benefit them greatly. Source: Internet
11. When there's lots of light but not enough nutrients and CO2 in the water then eventually your plants nutrient buffers will run empty and plant growth falters. When this happens your plants start to pollute the aquarium water which activate algae spores and algae begins to flourish. Therefore, we need to supply all elements of the golden triangle in sufficient amounts to achieve healthy plant growth, whilst also hindering algae growth. Source: Internet
12. Riccia is actually a floating species of plant, though in modern day aquascaping it is often tied down or trapped in wire mesh to form a carpet in the aquarium. It has been made popular by the late and great aquascaping legend Takashi Amano. If you have never heard of Mr Amano, google his name now to find some inspiration for your next aquarium set up. It is not the easiest of aquarium plants to keep and really requires CO 2 injection to grow well and thrive. Source: Internet
13. Unlike most species it will not root into the substrate. Some beginners make the mistake of adding java moss directly into their tank where it is then blown around by the filter, breaking apart and creating a mess. The solution is to tie the moss with dark cotton or a very low breaking strain fishing line to wood or rock in the aquarium, using plenty to ensure it stays in place. In time the moss will naturally attach itself to the aquarium décor creating an attractive and natural looking decoration as it grows over the cotton or fishing line. Alternatively aquarists can purchase pieces of bogwood, coconut shell and bamboo where the moss has already been tied to it. Source: Internet
14. I’m often asked by those new to the aquarium hobby why the plants they have bought have died. There are a few reasons why this can happen. Plants need a combination of light, CO 2 , micro and macro nutrients in order to survive. If someone is struggling to grow their plants, I start with three questions to try and determine what their problems are. Source: Internet
15. More often than not, the beginner I ask struggles to give me a species name. Their interest tends to be their fish and plants are very much a second thought. Often they have purchased plants from their local fish shop as part of a bunched deal, often they are not labelled up and so the purchaser has little or no idea what they have actually bought. Aquatic plants vary in shape, size and colour, as well as having different lighting, feeding and water parameter requirements. If you add a species which is not suited to your aquarium set up you’re going to struggle to keep them healthy from day one. Source: Internet
16. The plant has a horizontal rhizome of which leaves grow from in an upright manner. Unfortunately beginners often mistake this rhizome as roots and bury it in the aquarium substrate which will eventually kill it. Instead, java fern should be tied to rocks or wood using dark coloured cotton or a low breaking strain fishing line to keep them in place. Alternatively you can purchase commercially available pieces of bogwood with java fern already attached. Source: Internet
17. If you have a densely planted aquarium, then you will need to supplement NPK to avoid starving your plants. It will also be very beneficial at this point to supply CO2 for your plants. More information on CO2 can be found under our plant care section of the website. Source: Internet
18. We recommend using TNC Complete as your plant food, a complete solution for dosing Macro and Micro nutrients for the densely planted aquarium. See here. Dosing TNC Complete is simple; dose 1ml per 10 liter of tank water per week. Dosing can be increased to 2 or 3 times per week depending on plant growth, water changes etc. Source: Internet
19. It is often thought by many aquarists that by cutting back aquarium fertilizers in a planted aquarium will reduce algae or solve an algae outbreak. This is not the case. By not adding your plant fertilizer, you are actually starving your plants from the essential components needed for healthy growth. If your plants begin to perform poorly then this leaves the window wide open for algae. So by not adding nutrients will actually make your problems worse! Source: Internet
20. Lace plants are a truly stunning species, perhaps the most beautiful of all aquarium plant species. Unfortunately they don’t do well in low tech tanks. Correct positioning, correct feeding of trace elements, iron supplements and the addition of iron supplements are all required in order for them to do well. They also need to be closely monitored to avoid a build up of algae growth on their lace like leaves. Source: Internet
21. Many brands of tablet fertilisers are available readily. Nutrient rich ‘tablets’ can be added directly to your substrate, providing the required nutrients for plant species such as Echinodorus, Cryptocoryne and Vallisneria amongst others. One advantage they have is that plants can be fed individually when using them. Some aquarists also add them when adding new plants to their aquarium. Source: Internet
22. Unfortunately some species of snail seem immune to the pesticides used before export to the UK. Therefore, before adding any plants to your aquarium, take a good look at them and check for both snails and snail eggs. Failure to do so can result in infestation and damage to your newly purchased and existing stock of aquarium plants. Source: Internet
23. Of course it should go without saying that after you have invested in the correct lighting, substrate and fertilisers, you still need to ensure that you don’t stock plant eating species of fish. No matter how good your set up is, if you stock species such as goldfish that love to eat aquarium plants you’ll never have the aquatic masterpiece you wanted in your living room. Therefore if you are planning on setting up a fabulous looking aquascape you must also research the feeding habits of your proposed fish species of choice thoroughly too. Source: Internet
24. What substrate is best for your aquarium is always the subject of much debate amongst aquarists. Large gravel is not suitable for Corydoras catfish for example as the sharp edges can damage their delicate barbels, so many Corydoras keepers look to use fine sand in order to prevent this. Therefore the aquarist needs to think about what fish species as well as what plants they want to keep before deciding on a substrate. Source: Internet
25. These are far and away the most common type of aquarium fertilisers used in the hobby today. There are many different products available on the market and care should be taken to find a high quality product. Usually, liquid fertilisers should be used weekly, though do check the individual manufacturer’s instructions as this can vary. Whilst they are ideal for plant species which absorb nutrient directly through their foliage such as Egeria densa and java moss, they do not provide sufficient nutrition to species such as Amazon swords so the aquarist may need to use a combination of tablet and liquid fertilisers to feed all of their plants. Source: Internet
26. No guide on aquarium plants would be complete without the mention of carbon dioxide or CO 2 for short. Plants need carbon like every living thing and receive theirs through carbon dioxide. Some people believe that it is necessary to add CO 2 to the aquarium for good plant growth. Whilst this may be true in aquariums containing a large number of aquarium plants where competition for CO 2 is high, or where the aquarium has high light levels resulting in the plants being unable to cope with the demands of photosynthesis due to the amount of light, it is not always the case in sparsely populated tanks with just a few plants. Source: Internet
27. Now you know the best species to start with, perhaps it’s worth listing a few to avoid whilst you begin your aquarium keeping career. I’ve listed a few species which are common in the trade due to their attractive appearance. These species can be very tempting to purchase, but may not do too well resulting in you wasting money. Source: Internet
28. Whichever type of lighting you choose you should really aim to have your aquarium illuminated for 8 to 10 hours per day. Using a timer with your light unit will ensure you achieve this daily. Should you start to experience algal growth, reduce the amount of time your lights are on for (the photoperiod) and monitor the situation closely, making adjustments as required, in my experience light intensity has a better effect on plant growth than the photoperiod. Source: Internet
29. If you are looking to set up a new aquarium and a well planted tank is high on your list of priorities, then it would be best to avoid large diameter gravel as this is a poor choice for healthy root development. You will however get better results with smaller 2mm to 3mm gravel if this is your substrate of choice. Be warned, coloured gravels can raise the pH of your aquarium and are best avoided, though some may think they should be avoided on the grounds of good taste alone! Source: Internet
30. Like other species of the genus, Cryptocoryne wendtii can suffer from ‘Crypt melt’ sometimes called ‘Crypt rot’. This is a condition where cryptocorynes appear to die back when transferred to a new aquarium featuring different water parameters or lighting conditions. Some leaves die before growing back once fully acclimated, so don’t worry too much if you witness this after recently planting some in your aquarium. Source: Internet

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